La Vitrola

In the months preceding our recent trip to Cartagena, Colombia, I prepared the way I usually do for vacations. I obsessively researched the dining scene to insure that we ate at all the "right" spots while on vacation. Now, I planned this vacation without really knowing a thing about Cartagena. Airfare was cheap and an old friend (Margaret who joined us on the trip) had mentioned it as being on her list of travel destinations. And it seeme exotic. Added to the mix was the fact that a favorite book of mine "Love in the Time of Cholera" takes place in Cartagena (and the movie was filmed there) and I was sold.

But after the tickets were purchased, my preliminary research told me that Colombia is not known for its food. In fact, I read that the food was bland and unsophisticated, even plain old bad. Oh, the horror! The whole trip was planned around L's 40th birthday and I had somehow picked a place with lousy food! However, on further research, I learned that Cartagena is considered Colombia's restaurant capital. Whew! Huge sigh of relief.

In all my research, one name kept coming up as *the* restaurant in Cartagena: La Vitrola. I couldn't read enough good things about it. According to reports, it was as legendary as it was hard to get in. I booked a reservation a month in advance, without difficulty. And then I waited impatiently for our dinner.

There were 4 of us for dinner that night. We arrived and were ushered in the somewhat secret door by the security/doorman who stands vigil at the door. He won't allow anyone in who doesn't have a reservation. We then mosied over to the bar for a pre-dinner cocktail and to catch a bit of the cuban band. The mojitos were awesome. The band was terrific.

The restaurant itself was charming. Set inside a 400 year old former monastery; it has real South American charm. This definitely was not an Atlanta restaurant. It was cavernous, yet intimate. There was something very 19th century about the restaurant, but the mojitos were definitely 21st century.

After cocktails, we sat in the dining room for dinner. Even though it was a Wednesday night, the restaurant was full. The food was cuban-inspired and everything was fabulous. I ordered the ropa vieja (which Margaret later told me translates to "dirty clothes" or "dirty laundry" or something.) It was delicious; a sort of spicy pulled beef with rice and peppers. The appetizers, mini empandas, were also great. Margaret, L, and Tom (a friend living in Colombia who joined us) all ordered pasta dishes and all raved about them. Dessert was awesome, too. ANd the mojitos flowed through out the night, while the cuban music pulsed.

We ate in many excellent restaurants while in Cartagena, but La Vitrola surpassed them all; in both food and atmosphere. I hope some day I get to return to this beautiful restaurant, but until then, I have the cherished memory of this fantastical night.

Shaun's Restaurant

Dear Shaun's,

I owe you an apology. We use to have you on our regular brunch rotation. But, somehow, you fell off. This is partly because we haven't been going out for brunch quite as much as we used to, and partly beacuse you're off our beaten path. You're clear on the other side of town and we just sort of....forgot. (ok, there was also a calorie-intake issue, but that's my problem, not yours!) I'm sorry. Believe me, I'm sorry becuase it was clearly our mistake. I now kneel down before you and beg your forgiveness.

Shaun's is a lovely restaurant in Inman Park. We've gone a few times for dinner, but usually we go for brunch. There's something so casually elegant about this restaurant. The decor manages to evoke Provence and urban chic. The food is both simple and complicated. Shaun Doty manages to make delicious, things I ordinarily steer clear of (chopped liver, anyone?) If the restaurant isn't lovely enough, the patio is even more so. It's so unexpected. It's this little hidden oasis in the back. Tucked away, not visible from the street.

After a long absence, we returned to Shaun's for Sunday brunch recently. As soon as I walked in, I felt at home and I realized "oh, I missed it here!" It's an odd feeling to not know you missed something until it's staring you in the face. How had I forgotten this little gem?

We sat on the patio, a group of 5. L insisted ordering arugula flatbread and chopped liver and egg for appetizers, along with a lovely bottle of pinot rose. Now, I'm not a fan of chopped liver, but Lee insisted I try it, and I have to say: it was delicious. The flatbread, of course, was extraordinary. Just the right amount of sea salt.

For my entree, I ordered the Louisiana grits and crawfish, with creole sauce and a sunny-side up egg on top. (Yeah, I threw the diet out the window that day!) To say it was delicious, doesn't do it justice. It was beyond delicious. It was heaven in my mouth. L had a burger and fries. Legend has it that those fries are cooked in duck fat. I believe that's why they are so darn good. We had a second bottle of rose with our entrees. Everyone was completely satiated by the meal's end (and a little buzzed!) Later that day, L looked at me and said "Can we go to Shauns' for brunch again...right now?"

Well, the good news is we moved and are now closer to Shaun's. Hopefully, this will translate to more frequent meals there. And I'm rooting for dinner. If brunch was this good, how great will dinner be?

Festival Food

So what's a self-proclaimed "foodie" like me doing writing about festival food? Serioiusly, does festival "food" count as food? Isn't it just offered to absorb the booze consumed?

Well, those are good points. Here, in Atlanta, spring is upon us and with it brings an outdoor festival each weekend. We, Atlantans, love to party outdoors under the guise of appreciating arts and crafts and live folk music. And what culinary delights are offered at these weekly festivals? Well, there's no escaping the ubiquitous chicken gyro. Don't forget the corndogs. Oh, and my personal favorite: "ice cream of the future," something called Dots. Man, that's some weird stuff.

But in New Orleans, they have a different way of doing things. L, A, and I just returned from a weekend in NOLA, celebrating Jazz Fest, the outdoor festival to end all outdoor festivals. Now, the music at Jazzfest is spectacular to be sure. But the food! I think I can safely say that we go for the food. We enjoy the music, but we make the 7 1/2 hour trek for the food.

And there's so much to choose from! Leave your diet at home and sample as much as you can. This year I opted for jambalya (ok, it had the shortest line, but it's always a safe bet!), a duck confit po'boy (mmmmmm!), and crawfish monica (can't go wrong there!). Little A had some crawfish bread which is like some delicious grilled cheese only w/ crawfish in it. L had a muffaletta and God knows what else (that man can eat!) Honestly, we barely scraped the surface. I missed out on the pheasant and quail gumbo, which my friend Jen said is her favorite thing. I resolve next year to make that a priority! Cajun sushi sounds scary to me, particularly if it's been sitting in the hot Louisana sun (but I am a little curious about it!) I always plan on getting the cochon po'boy, but the long line always scares me away. Next year, I may try the catfish almondine. That looked pretty good, too. There are desserts, too. Bread pudding, anyone...

So Atlanta, step up! Next time Paul McCartney is performing in Piedmont Park, do you think you could offer some food befitting the occasion? Look to the west, maybe New Orleans can cater the event.

Livingston

As long as I've lived in Atlanta, I've been enamored with the Georgian Terrace. Such a beautiful building, gracing the corner of Peachtree and Ponce de Leon. For the longest time, it sat, not quite abandoned, but not thriving either. Certainly, not living up to its potential either. I believe it was a hotel. But, was it? It seemed....empty.

Then, about a year ago, I drove by and noticeed a steel sign on the terrace announcing "Livingston." I thought "what's that?!? Is a cool new restaurant finally opening in that gorgeous building??" I was right. I also learned that the whole building had been renovated and was now a swank hotel, with a swank new restaurant.

I've been there now four or five times. It never disappoints. I just love dropping the car off at the valet and being escorted through the revolving door by the bellmen. I love strolling through the white marble lobby, making my way to the restaurant.

My first visit to Livingston was last Mother's Day. L was working so Brad & Eric graciously offered to take A and I to brunch. It was beautiful Sunday in May. A perfect day to sit on the magnificent terrace that overlooks Peachtree. Somehow, even though the terrace sits on Peachtree and Ponce, not the most "genteel" part of the city, sitting there, one can't help but feel peaceful, relaxed and in another time. My mind wandered to a time when trolleys rang down Peachtree, when the red carpet adorned the Fox Theater and the Georgian Terrace hosted the premiere of "Gone With The Wind." When you sit on that terrace, it's like you are there.

I remember that day, too, because A was so much fun. I got dresed in a pretty blue dress which A ruined by smearing his greasy little fingers all over it. But I didn't mind. I remember him laughing and feeding me french fries. Giggling and cooing at me. Brad & Eric, who have no kids and are very proper, tried desperately to ignore the toddler love-fest.

Livingston lives up to the grandeur of its surroundings. The food is elegant. The restaurant timeless. On the bar sits a white marble bust of the restaurant's namesake, a former mayor of Atlanta who lived across the street and was known for his flamboyant lifestyle. Cocktails at the bar include ingredients like absinthe. Now that takes you back, no?

I had dinner there again last Saturday night. Luckily, the weather was perfect and we sat on the terrace. It was beautiful. Like a fairy tale.

Disney Dining

We recently took a little family vacation to Disney World. It turned out to be a really fun little trip. Somehow, this was unexpected to me. We also had some good dining experiences. Not in the parks, mind you, there you are pretty much limited to burgers, pizza, fries, ice cream (not even frozen yogurt!), and cotton candy. So, leave your diet at home.

Here's a little recap of the restaurants where we dined (all of which are located in the Swan/Dolphin resort).

Todd English's Blue Zoo

On our first night in Orlando, we had dinner plans to meet my dear friend Buzz and his lovely wife Karen and their 2 kids. I was very excited to check out Blue Zoo and Karen graciously made reservations. A & I got there first (L was on the phone). We checked out the restaurant and then made our way to the (largely empty) bar. I pulled out a stool to sit down, and planned on putting A in a stool next to me. (I wasn't entirely sure that this would work, but I thought I'd give it a shot.) Well, before I could sit down, the hostess came running over and informed me that "kids were not allowed in the bar area." Seriously? Did she understand that she was on Disney property? Now, let's be clear. She did not tell me that we could sit at one of the many empty tables in the bar area, just not sit at the bar itself (which I would have understood.) She said kids were not allowed in the entire bar area. So, I walked out.

When L & our friends arrived, we headed back into the restaurant. This time the hostess said we could sit at a table in the bar area while we waited for our table. Even though we now included 3 kids. Huh?

Anyway, dinner was great, albiet extremely expensive. The food was excellent, no one had a single complaint. I personally thought the bubble gum martini was a bit much, but Karen loved it. We had a great time catching up. I had not seen Buzz in many years, and he had not yet met my son. However, the atmosphere was not so friendly. (The little kids rolling around on the floor probably didn't help.) Whatever. I had my back to the the dining room so I was little oblivious to what was going on around me. Moreover, I enjoyed the company I was with very much. I recommend it, but probably leave the kids at home.

Next up: Il Mulino

Il Mulino is an Italian restaurant out of New York that has opened several outposts through out the country (including Atlanta.) We decided to there our second night at Disney. We didn't have reservations, and even though, they were very busy, they squeezed us. There were lots of families dining. And lots of happy noise and activity. The place was beautiful and had a great atmosphere. No one seemed to mind that A was not on his best behavior. It was just...fun. We ordered pizza for A. L & I shared an order of bucatini amatriciana and an order of veal saltimbocca. They brought out limoncello at the end of the dinner. Everyone was so pleasant and accommodating. We had a wonderful time. But as we took our last bites of food, L & I looked at each other and said "the food wasn't very good, was it?" Not that it was bad, just not great. Sort of mediocre. And we hadn't even noticed it. Lesson learned: atmosphere can take you a long way.

Last night: Kimonos

On our last night, we went to Kimono's, the sushi restaurant. This was definitely the riskiest place to take A, what with all the tables close together, cluttered with small plates, and bowls, water glasses, wine glasses, etc. A disaster waiting to happen. It didn't help that A was exhuasted after a long day at Magic Kingdom. He threw more than one fit in the short time we were there. The sushi was excellent, as were the cocktails. But dinner was cut short by our over-tired child.

So overall, our Disney dining experience was pretty good. Blue Zoo has great food, but needs to work on their atmosphere (or at least come to terms with the fact that they're on Disney property and can expect kids in the restaurant). Il Mulino has a great atmosphere, but needs to work on punching up the food. And Kimonos really had both.

Dining with Child Revisited

The last time I discussed dining with our son A, he was still an infant. As you may recall, L & I brought A to a very sleek restaurant (Dolce) and he proceeded to expel a thick green vomit all over himself and the floor around him. Nice. Well, now he's nearly 3. The perils of dining with a three year old are considerably different than those of dining with an infant.

Case in point: recently, we had dinner at Bistro Niko, a new restaurant here in Atlanta. Now, as I have previously confessed my love of French bistros, you may imagine that I've been dying to check out Bistro Niko. I would have preferred using my first Bistro Niko experience as an excuse to get a sitter and have an "adults-only" dinner with L. The problem was I just didn't kow when we'd be able to do that. The schedules are so difficult.

So I made 5:30 reservations for 3 on a Sunday. That particular day was quite busy. We took A to the circus at noon, followed by an hour or so playing in the park. We had enough time to clean up, before heading back out for dinner. A had no nap and very little lunch. All this is to say, that upon arriving at the restaurant, A was bouncing off the walls.

They sat us at a table for 4 which had 8 crystal wine glasses across the middle. I avoided disaster by asking Rashid, our server, to remove them pronto! A just would not sit still. He was loud, whiny, bored and agitated. I thought to myself (but did not say aloud) "maybe this was mistake..." L ran out to the car to get A's toy cars for him to play with. And I walked, or rather chased, A around the restaurant. Although I usually say that "A is for adorable," that night "A" was for annoying. I concluded that we'd have to make it a quick dinner so we could get out of there without bringing too much shame and embarassment upon ourselves.

When Rashid came to take our order, we quickly ordered A a croque monsieur and frites (grilled ham and cheese with fries) and ordered ourselves escargot and a pate charcuterie. We felt defeated but were determined to try to salvage the dinner.

And then a miracle happened. Rashid brought the bread course. We gave A some bread and butter. Then we gave him more. Apparently, the poor child was starving. He happily and quietly ate several pieces of bread. In fact, he finished the bread basket. When his sandwich came, he devoured it. All this food cause an immediate transformation. He returned to his usual fun, funny, sweet self. A was for adorable, once more.

This allowed L & I to enjoy our delicious dinners (beef bourgonnone for him, skate wing for me). We shared a bottle of red wine and had pistachio profiteroles for dessert. While we ate, A laughed, played, sang and kissed and hugged us. We did not have to rush. It was lovely. In fact, it was a blast. My friends never believe me when I say it, but in all honesty, dining out is more fun when A is involved.

The Stone Kitchen

My childhood in Boston was not marked by alot of great fine dining experiences. Mostly, I remember the torture of being force fed canned vegetables and my mother's uninspired, bland meals. When we did go out to dinner, it was always Italian. This was Boston, after all, a city divided by the Irish and Italians. If the Irish controlled the political machine, the Italians controlled the gastronomy.

As an adult, I just don't gravitate to Italian restaurants. Sure, Ecco is one of my favorite restaurants, but it is not so much "Italian" in the italicized sense of the word. At least, it's not the Italian food of my childhood. But there's a (relatively) new restaurant in Atlanta that has re-ignited my love for Italian food. I've only been there twice: the first time with the previously mentioned, always entertaining Brad and his partner, the disarming scholar, Eric. Now, when Brad & Eric aren't in Atlanta, they reside in Rome...Italy (not Georgia). So, when they start raving about a new Italian restaurant in Atlanta, you better take it seriously.

La Pietra Cucina opened in a tiny spot in midtown and quickly earned a reputation among foodies as the "go-to" restaurant in town. The Chef, who previously worked at Babbo in New York, is known for his simple, Italian cooking, done with a modern edge. On our first visit, I was blown away by everything I had, but particularly by the spicy black spaghetti with rock shrimp.

It took us a year to return. And in that time, the restaurant closed, renovated, and re-opened in a much more grand space. We had dinner there a few weeks ago with our new friends Bob and Norma. Norma is my gym buddy who, like me, divides her time between eating out and then working it off at the gym. Bob, the wine guy, earned a special place in my heart when he came over to our house for dinner one night and brought a vintage bottle of Billicarte-Salmon Rose Reserve!

Back to our fabulous dinner, we ate proscuitto with a pineapple coulis; burrata - a soft mozzarella in olive oil and sea salt. We shared an arugula and pistachio salad. For my entree, I could not resist getting the black spaghetti once more. Both Bob & Norma had the pappadelle and L had the buccatini amatriciana. It was all house made pasta and each bite was a savory explosion. Although three of us made our pastas our entrees, L, the bottomless pit, also ordered the waygu skirt steak. (Actually, I told him to he had to order this so I could have a bite!) It was literally like butter. I know you hear that expression alot, but this actually was. It was like eating butter; soft, velvety deliciousness.

We ate too much food (including dessert) and drank too much wine, but really good wine (Thanks to Bob) and argued about politics (alas, Bob leans to the right!) What a great night we had.